Head banging cripple Pete goes troppo

Oldfartsurfers The Dude (OFSC No. 12) and the Old Farts Surf Co. Head Honcho, The Mexican (OFSC NO. 4) were lured by a web cam and surf reports to a favorite beach break.  "Awesome" said the Dude when he got the first glimpse of a 4' set as they arrived.  "Yeah, awesome" responded the Mexican, the longest verbal conversation the pair had had during the 40 min drive.   During a quick surf check from the car park the Mexican snapped off this sequence of a cripple on a long clean left.  No further words needed, it was time to rubber up and get out there and snag a few.

Whilst the photos show blue sky and blue water, being mid winter, the oldfartsurfers had a lot of rubber to put on.  As they rubbered up the friendly cripple came up from the beach, introduced himself as Pete, and gave some friendly advice on where the best peaks were.  He then peeled back his rubber hood showed the boys a wound on his forehead where it had been driven into the sand bottom.  Whilst seeing Pete's bloody wound was a sobering reminder of the perils of being sucked into shore break barrel, surprisingly Pete said "the water's really warm".

"The water doesn't seem to warm to me" said the Dude as they paddled out.  "Warm water in the middle of winter, must be the bang on the head made him go troppo" said Mex.  More conversation than a baby shower.

Perhaps feeling guilty about what he had done to Pete's forehead, or, perhaps to protect a couple of oldfartsurfers from themselves, Huey decided to pull up stumps.  All the The Dude and The Mex got was a couple of fat takeoffs then a long wait out the back for the waves that never came.  Eventually, a couple of nods was all that was needed for the oldfartsurfers to agree it was time to paddle in.

The next day Mex received a message from Pete:

"not feeling great today after getting driven into the grey sand yesterday.  Serve myself right for not pulling out.  Luckily my neck is not too bad.  The blow was more of a brutal shove than a bang... good thing my neck has flexibility or I'd be in a brace.  Says a lot for palates.  The wetsuit hat saved my skin from being torn, but I have a neatly shaven bald patch and some nice bruising. "  

"Pulling out of a wave like that is not an option" said Mex, not even for an oldfartsurfer who could use age as an excuse to avoid a pounding."  "You would live with regrets for the rest of your life, Pete had no choice but to go for it."

(Publishers note: Pete may not have gone troppo after all, the water temperature was reported to be a tropical 13.7 degC, much higher than the 1981-2005 mean of 12.5 for this time of year.)

Please leave comments below.

Click here to see a previous related story.

A little birdie told me

(The uninspiring Entrance)

Intrepid oldfartsurfer no. 45, Rouge, is winning the Old Farts Surf co. 2013 awards for the most surfs in 2013 by an oldfartsurfer.  "Not only is he our most prolific surfer but he is also our major contributor with a never ending account of his heroic oldfartsurfcapades" said Old Farts Surf Co. Head Honcho, The Mexican.  The Dude, Macho and the Mex have had trouble finding any sort of wave to surf over the past two months and have taken to mountain bike riding in a desperate attempted to get a surf stoke.

(Out of the way Birdie Beach)

These photos came with the following comments from Rouge:
"The girls left town for their annual weekend away.  My mate Buzzy and I decided to head up the coast (1hr 20min) for some greener pastures.  We surfed The Entrance rivermouth at 7 am.  Very small and uninspiring.  then drove north another half an hour to Birdie Beach (never been there) off the national park just near Budgewoi.  One of those out of the way beaches that we should visit more often.  Beaut little 2-3' lefthanders that got faster and faster as the tide went out.  I'll take you there next time you're in Sydney"

(Oldfartsurfer Rouge at Birdie Beach)

The Mexican said "I was impressed with the Rouge and Buzzy getting to The Entrance by 7 am, the girls were away so they could have slept off the hangover, perhaps they just didn't go to bed after partying all night".  The Oldfartsurfer is Gladdened that Bob continues to excel.

(Frazer Park pumping)

Fiji Episode 2 - Oldfartsurfing Research Continues

Those of you who read the first installment of oldfartsurfers Rouge (OFSC No. 45) and Mexican (OFSC No. 4) Fiji research trip might be forgiven for thinking that the Oldfartsurfer has dropped the ball on this.  The trip was in June and the first installment was in July.  The Oldfartsurfer begs your understanding as he was distracted with a big follow up research trip in search of waves and the north west passage in British Columbia and Alaska.  The Old Farts Surf Co. is relentless in its quest to find and report on the best oldfartsurfing experiences for oldfartsurfers.

(Mex numbs the tongue with Kava)

After a Kava ceremony initiation as Chief Bill of the tribe of Oldfartsurfers, The Mexican was seated on a throne wide enough to take the both bum cheeks of a 200 kg Samoan.

(Mex, aka Chief Bill, ascends the throne)

"It was a great honour to sit on the throne" said Mex, "At home I usually read a surfing mag on the throne, but there were none at hand so I had to enjoy the entertainment put on by our hosts."

(Mex helps guard the Fiji Presidents throne room)

The lack of door latches on throne rooms in Fiji and the plethora of coups meant that the boys  and support crew had to be constantly on their guard. "Bula is the word" said Rouge, "It is a friendly greeting and a way of saying everything is good.  We repaid our hosts generous hospitality by helping out with guard duties.  Mex even helped out guarding the throne room of the Chief of Chiefs, The President"

(One of our Fijian hosts guards Chief Bill's throne room)

After the massive surf of the oldfartsurfer's arrival day and the subsequent induction of Chief Bill, the oldfartsurfer's set about finding surf suitable for oldfartsurfers.  Key criteria were discussed over an evening gin and tonic but they forgot to make a record.  "I think we thought we should look for a place to surf where it is easy to paddle out, easy to catch a wave, is uncrowded, has a comfortable place for support crew to shop and have lunch whilst still affording photo opportunities"  said Mex.

(Sigatoka river mouth)

Mex and Rouge set out on their never ending research quest for oldfartsurfing waves.  The first port of call was Sigatoka where they called in to a local cafe to ask directions.  This is where they met a bloke/sheila called Mary.  "Mary was full of good ideas and, for a small deposit he/she was quite happy to set us up our own surf guide, and for a little bit extra we could get just about anything we wanted" said Rouge.  "Mex was desperate for a wave and was all for paying up but the absence of the guide made me hesitant.  We left Mary and with the help of some locals we found our way to the famous Sigatoka river mouth but it was maxing out at a messy 10' with murky brown water that wasn't particularly inviting"

(Brave Rouge paddles out alone)

"Eventually we found a break that satisfied nearly all the oldfartsurfing criteria" said Rouge.  "It was out the front of a resort called 'Hideaway', the staff were pretty friendly and they let us through the property to surf."

(a Hideaway barrel waiting for those who dare)

"I thought it looked pretty sketchy on the first day so I opted to take the role of official photographer"  said the Mex.  "It was pretty messy from the cross shore wind, it had a mean looking rip going out through the pass and it looked shallow.  I always take Clint Eastwood's advice on these occasions 'a mans gotta know his limitations'".  So brave Rouge paddled out alone.

(Rouge taking off, Hideaway)

Rouge caught a few of the smaller waves and while he was out there the resident surfers started to emerge and build their own courage.  They told Mex that they had been waiting for the high tide to put a bit of water over the reef.

(Rouge paddles over a throaty barrel)

According to the Mex "Rouge really put on a show of expert oldfartsurfing, he showed all his skill and experience taking off over coral that he developed surfing Red Bluff and Indonesia in the seventies."

As mentioned earlier, Mex and Rouge were on a mission to find the ultimate oldfartsurfing wave.    According to Mex "Hideaway ticked a lot of the boxes, it was easy to paddle out, it was uncrowded, there was shopping and a restaurant for the support crew and the outdoor cafe provided shelter from the rain and the sun while they sipped aperitifs and took photos of the boys".  The takeoff could be steep and the Mex managed to lose a bit of skin on the coral.  "Losing the skin wasn't such a worry, it grows back, but it was the damage done to Bob the Bobsled's nose that had me worried, he had to be checked into the Dude's hospice for oldfartsurfcraft for a nose job when we got him home" said the Mex.

(Bob the Bobsled's Hideaway nose job)

"The second session at Hideaway was a little more sedate" said Rouge, "the swell was smaller and cleaner, and even the rain didn't deter Mex from mixing it up out there.  There were a few other guys in the water to keep us company, all friendly.  I paddled over the channel and caught lefts to myself which was fun and the support crew managed to capture it in pixels, I was stoked".

(Hideaway right in the rain)

(Rouge goes left, Hideaway)

(Hiding away in the barrel)

(Rouge with the grin of a stoked oldfartsurfer)

After the surfing Rouge, Mex and the support crew partied hard at a Bula night.  "Much Kava was consumed, food eaten, drinks drunken and dancing done, not a bad spot for oldfartsurfers" said Mex.

(Mex, Rouge and support crew out on the Kava)

(Rouge and Mex dancing with the locals)

(The locals dancing for Rouge and Mex)

(Fiji night cap)

(Rouge Kava's it up in Bula style)

Click here to see the previous installment of the Fiji Series.
While in Fiji Rouge, Mex and support crew stayed at the Holiday Club Fiji Palms resort.
Please leave comments below for all to enjoy.
Click here to email the Oldfartsurfer.

Rouge & Mex Greeted by Massive Fiji - Part 1

Intent on undertaking valuable research on surf locations suitable for oldfartsurfers, Old Farts Surf Head Honcho, Mex (OFSC No. 4) and Rouge (OFSC No. 45) planned an expedition to Fiji.  After surfing the southern Tassie points earlier in the week, the boys arrived on the 8th June expecting to see the same swell hitting Fiji and the WCT contest at Cloudbreak.

(Coke head Rouge psyches up for a big surf)

Travelling from the airport at Nadi along the Coral Coast in the back of a van with no shock absorbers, Rouge could see the swell hitting the reefs and remarked "looks like a bit of swell".  What the boys didn't know was that the swell was peaking at around 20' at that moment and according to the Mex "all reports said it was the most perfect wave of that size has ever been ridden".

(Mex Kavas it up and metamorphoses into Chief Bill)

The Mex and Rouge had been tempted to surf the WCT but Rouge said "Mex and I, along with the Dude (OFSC No. 12), who at the same time was doing his own oldfartsurfing research in Sri Lanka, had withstood the lure of competitive surfing in order to dedicate ourselves to researching suitable locataions for oldfartsurfers."

(Chief Bill of Australia, New Zealand, France and Mother England channels a Buttons Kaluhiaokani)

"Having a big swell waiting for us we were keen to take advantage" said Mex.  "Oldfartsurfer research invariably involves keeping the missus happy, so we'd booked ourselves into a comfy looking resort called the Fiji Palms with nearby shopping" explained Mex. "Once the ladies were settled we went off to talk to the local village chief about access to the local break"

(The real Buttons, no that's Rouge)

"The local chief insisted on a big welcoming kava ceremony and Mex was dobbed in to represent us as the Chief of the village of Australia, New Zealand, France and Mother England" said Rouge, "a task he performed admirably."

(Fans gather on the shore as the boys prepare to paddle out)

With fans eagerly waiting for the boys to paddle out they donned their life vests and were taken out to the waves in boats provided by the local village.  "I was pretty nervous as we prepared to go out" said Mex,  "then I saw Rouge with a thousand yard stare like a man about to meet his destiny and new everything would be OK."

(A messy big right hander at Sigatoka river mouth)

(With a 1000 yard stare Rouge dons a vest and Old Farts Surf Co. bucket hat for safety)

(Rouge in OFSC bucket hat on the way out the back in the long boat)

(Local crew follow the boys out to check out the action)

Once out the back the biggest and best wave of the day came through.  "True to oldfartsurfer etiquette, it was declared a team wave" said Rouge, " and we both took the big drop together."

(Leap of faith, Rouge and Mex take big the drop on a team wave)

"After coming off the bottom we both got the biggest barrel of our lives, easily big enough for both of us!"

(A barrel big enough for two, Rouge and Mex cling to the wall)

After catching the wave of the day Mex said "we paddled back in to the local village, there was a bit of a fanfare going on and the local chief was preparing the village for a big party for us.

(Bob the McTavish Bobsled gets a nose job)

Not everything was hunky dory though,  According to Mex, "Bob my trusty McTavish bobsled had received a bit of treatment on the reef.  It was sad but mendable".

(Fanfare for our heroes)

Read the next installment to find out about the party and a bit of a coup.

Please leave comments below.

Click here to contact the Oldfartsurfer.

Rouge Scores Narrabeen

According to Old Farts Surf Co. Head Honcho, the Mexican, "the oldfartsurfers have been travelling far and wide over the past month in their never ending quest for the ideal oldfartsurflocation".  The Dude (OFSC No. 12) and the Good Woman headed to Sri Lanka, and the Mexican (OFSC No. 4) and Rouge (OFSC No. 45) explored Fiji with oldfartsurfers 11 and 58.

The Oldfartsurfer will report later on the research the oldfartsurf team has been doing on behalf of the world's oldfartsurfers, however, in the interim would  like to let you know Rouge scored the best waves when he got home.

Rouge & Mex returned from Fiji late on Friday night after a rainy week during which Kelly Slater won the Fiji Pro.  Not wanting to pre-empt the boys official report, but the best surf the boys got was at best OK, and 'not all time'.  To finish the oldfartsurfsafari off nicely the boys got up at 5:30 am on the Saturday morning and, picked up local surf mate of Rouge, and drove to Narrabeen to witness the sunrise.  The sunrise was awesome as the above two photos attest, however, the waves were large and closing out.  Some fun peaks were found down the road at Long Reef before the wind and rain followed them from Fiji, only colder.

After a respectable amount of paddling for exercise and the occasional wave, the boys chatted up the local Batista while she made a warming coffee and headed home.  Mex off home interstate and Rouge settling back into domestic bliss.

However, Rouge is a surf nazi and had been checking the swell charts and thought "the best opportunity to get a good surf was on Sunday morning".  Keen as mustard, without his surf buddies, he snuck out of the house back down to Narrabeen and scored some sensational waves. " Lucky for us" said the Mex,  "he had the wherewithall to take some photos and share them to us.  At least someone was scoring."

Click here for a previous related story.

please make comments below

Click here to contact the Oldfartsurfer

Moose's Super Mum in Hawaii

The Oldfartsurfer has to state here and now that THIS IS NOT A SUP BLOG.  Just because we've published two blogs in a row featuring oldfartsurfers riding SUPs along with previous features of Oldfartsurfer No. 6, Spot, and the Oldfartsurfer No. 4, Mex, riding SUPs, doesn't mean that we have departed from our fundamental value of STAYING STOKED on surfing.  However, staying stoked sometimes involves all manner of oldfartsurfcraft and this time we are honoring Oldfartsurfer No. 33, Moose's Mum (MM), aka Supermum, or Superb Susan.

(Moose's Mum paddles out)

Having toured Australia a couple of years ago and learnt to surf under the tutelage of Spot on an east coast oldfartsurfsurfari, MM has pursued a range of endeavours including marathon running in a quest to get stoked surfing.  She recently undertook an expeditionary oldfartsurfsurfari to the home of modern surf stoke, Hawaii, in order to hone her oldfartsurfing skills.  "I'm planning to take on Sunset and Pipe next year" said the supermum.  "After that I plan to paddle into Jaws".

(Moose's Mum paddles in)

MM is planning to prepare for these feats by competing in the Hawaiian Ironman Triathlon.  "'The fitter you are the more stoked you can be' is my motto" said the supermum, "staying stoked is all about wave count and wave size". Her theory is that the fitter she is, the more big waves she can catch, and we can't argue with that logic.  Old fart Surf Co. Head Honcho, the Mex, said "MM is an inspiration to oldfartsurfers around the world, its never too late to start surfing and getting stoked"

Please lease comments below.

Click here for  previous related article.

Click here to contact the Oldfartsurfer.

Oldfartsurfers Gather at Sandon Point

Oldfartsurfer Rouge (OFSC No.45) and his main squeeze, Hot Stuff (OFSC No. 58 - aka Madam Rouge), went on an oldfartsurfsafari last year.  They came across a group of oldfartsurfers having an oldfartsurfing event at Sandon Point.  Rouge sent the photos with the following message:

"Hot Stuff  & I just returned from a tour of Syd-Melb via Princes Hwy.  On our first day, we called in to Sandon Point (north of the Gong) and just happened to come across the is amazing event - I'm sure this was sanctioned by you!

http://bobbybrownsurfinglegend.com/blog/

cheers"

 (A tribe of genuine oldfartsurfers about to paddle out)

Well Rouge was right, The Old Farts Surf Co. has sanctioned this event, albeit posthumourously!  How could we not?  You only have to check these dudes out to know they are genuine, if not official, oldfartsurfers.

Of particular note is the dedication to riding real oldfartsurfing equipment and displaying trophies previously won by genuine oldfartsurfers like Andrew McKinnon, Frank Latta and Australia's first world champion Midget Farrelly.  The Mexican (OFSC No. 4) recalls having a 6' Farrelly tri fin in 1971, 10 years before they were invented by Simon Anderson. 

 (Oldfartsurfboards to be proud of)

It appears, from the Bobby Brown link Rouge provided, that he had stumbled on the Bobby Brown Memorial Paddle Out and Single Fin Contest.  A brilliant surfer in the 60's, Bobby died young and a travelling exhibition and events commemorate his life.  Check out the link he provided for a bit of history.

(A real oldfartsurfer's trophy) 

 (McKinnon, Latta & Farrelly - oldfartsurfer pedigree)

 (Check out the spray job on this stinger under the arm of an oldfartsurfgrommet!)

(This pin tail was meant for riding big walls)

Please leave your feedback on the comments post below.

Click here for a previous story from Rouge.

Click here to contact the Oldfartsurfer.