The Mex (oldfartsurfer No. 4) turned up to work today but colleague Rockhead (oldfartsurfer No. 42) didn't. "Late this afternoon Rockhead sent me this photo of a river mouth break" said Mex. "Bastard!"
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12 July 2011
The buoy is telling us its 9m average and 17m max wave height. All the big swell points are going to be firing. But we know they are going to be crowded, this is the most anticipated swell of the year and everyone has known it is going to hit for about 5 days now.
(The last blast for space shuttle Atlantis? No its the Dude, the Nectar Samurai)"I've been checking the maps and I reckon I've found a spot that will get the swell, its got a sand bottom off a rocky point and it might be a bit of a walk." said the Dude. "A big risk to try something new but we knew all the local points are going to be crowded. Plus, the wind was forecast to have too much west in it for the first day so we decided to venture where we thought no man had ventured before" said the Mex.
(Atomic melt down, the Dude prepares to save the world from angry bees)On the Friday, the Mexican has a quiet word with Rockhead. Serendipitously, The Rock has had the same spot eyed for years with the Wild Hog Gang and they were also planning an assault. Could this be the Oldfartsurfers meet the Wild Hogs for a rumble?
(Not Atlantis, The Dude prepares to stabilise the honey reactor with a bit of twine and "space smoke" provided by the Other Dude.)After a long drive and a walk,a three rocky points were found on the rising tide. The sand spit the boys were looking at on the maps wasn't firing but head high waves were found on the first point with two dudes enjoying some smoking head high waves, and, further kilometer away with about 10 dudes were on a point with overhead waves. This was a place that in the combined 80 years experience between the Mexican and Rockhead, that neither of them had ever heard of. Sensational in this world of overcrowded breaks.
(The Dude and a can of nectar fission removed to save humanity after securing the hive from 60 knot gusts)The boys paddled out at the first point in 5 deg C and 50 knots of westerly. "The Other Dude got a pearler on the first wave, took off under the lip, avoided the dolerite boulders and sped on down the point" said the Mex. "We thought we were in for a great session, unfortunately , that was about he last wave that came through, the tide came up and the swell seemed to drop away"
(Chaos on the home font as the 17m swell destroys beaches previously though of as protected )