22 November 2009

SUP Invasion of Local Point Break

It was a warm spring day and the Mexican thought there might be a bit of swell so he thought he'd check out his local.  "The Dude was busy with a BBQ and Macho was on a family surf trip so I had to go without a surf buddy" said the Mex.  "But when I got there there was this bloke riding one of those SUP things.  I thought I ruled this place with the Mal but this guy was picking up ripples way out the back"  the Mex went on.

According to the Mex hethese photos as evidence of the event for reference and localism.  "Not only was there a SUP out there but some Dude on a Kayak" exclaimed the Mex.

15 November 2009

Utes, Roos, Snakes and Fat Peaks

This started out as a pretty promising trip to a secret island surf spot to the south.  A mate of a mate said the banks were good, the swell was forcast at 3m, a good solid size for the middle bay , and a light offshore.  The Young dude seccombed to beer and wenching leaving the Dude and the Mexican to catch the first ferry to compete in the fifth round of the Old Farts Surf Co. Splinter Group World Surf Championship.

(Eating dust of the lead ute looking for car raping roos, if he hits one he'll be roo-uted)
Getting off the ferry the boys ate the dust of a ute that was travelling just fast enough not to be overtaken as the Old Farts Surf Co. team high tailed it south at as fast as they could.  Ominous road signs of sex crazed kangaroos humping cars that went slower than 45 km/hr primed the adrenalin for the surf and kept the car moving.

(Fat peaks and spectacular scenery)
The Dude fish tailed and down the dirt road and pulled up nicely with a 30m gravel slide into the car park.  The boys threw open the doors and left them swinging as they raced over the hill to see the anticipated perfection.

The bay revealed the predicted swell and glassy conditions but the rumoured banks weren't there.  Instead, there were mushy fat peaks.  A quick decision was made to try the lagoon mouth in the hope that the swell was big enough and an hour after arrival the team paddled out back at the bay.

(Shoulda gone right)
"I just love a fat peak and chewing the fat out the back" the Mexican said.  An initial wave was taken by both competitors and they both blew the take off coming up laughing.  "There is no drop in rule for our competitors and team waves are highly scored for all competitors" said The Dude.  "Calling a competitor to drop into you gets you extra points" he explained.

(The Dude thinks his Patagonian Yak's wool surf suit is a bit itchy)
The Dude and The Mexican chewed the fat with a few other dudes out the back while they waited for fat peaks.  The Mexican managed a couple of good drops, getting back out the back in a strong rip next to the rocks.  Meanwhile The Dude was pre-occupied, luxuriating in his new Pategonia merino wool lined wet suit.

(A left that didn't close out)
The sea breeze came in very early so the boys decided to call it quits and catch the early ferry home to see the good women.  The Dude nearly came to grief on the way back to the gear.  "I nearly trod on a tiger snake" he said, surprisingly calmly for his near death experience.  "Fortunately I had my wetsuit and booties on but I was really worried about ruining my new wool lined wet suit with a snake bite" he finished, indicative of his pre-occupation with sheeps wool close to his skin*.

(The Mexican's super surfcraft)
*Note: The Dude is not a Kiwi.

(A really fat right)

(Roos lift cars to 45 deg from dusk to dawn)