The Mexican, pictured here on a 7' Tern charging a small right hand Carlton River, is heading to Cairns to wrestle crocodiles on the way to charging remote mega reef surf in Samoa. "My motives are purely altruistic" said the Mexican from the Virgin departure lounge, "I'm doing for the boys, I'm the advance guard and they want me to go and test it out before they spend all their dollars on something that could be far too dangerous". Braving an outbreak of pig flu he said "I know its going to be tough, warm and pristine, but someone's got to do it. Bon Voyage Mex and keep us posted by carrier pigeon. To find out where the Mex is going go to www.oldfartsurf.com and go to the section on Travel for oldfartsurfers.
2 comments:
Hey Mex, your Samoan post has ruined my work productivity. I find myself drifting off in meetings, dreaming of the sound of spray from a smooth 'tern'...
Reading the Tim Winton book Breath at the moment, helping me stay sane. Check out this passage reminiscing about the first summer when he & his mate got hooked..."We went back and back that summer. We hitched and rode and walked, begging boards from the crew when they paddled in for lunch or at day's end, and week by week we literally found our feet, wobbling in across the shorebreak, howling and grinning like maniacs. Even now, forty years later, every time I see a kid pop to her feet, arms flailing, all milkteeth and shining skin, I'm there; I know her, and some spark of early promise returns to me like a moment of grace".
Rouge
thanks Rouge, I read Breath as well. Some autobiographical moments. Not that I charged 20' bombies without a wetsuit!!
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