07 August 2011

Taming the Wild Wind

Anticipating that the swell would swing south and maintain its size and that the wind would ease off and swing south, the Mex (Original Oldfartsurfer No. 4) and the Dude (Original Oldfartsurfer No. 12) planned a dawn attack on the local point.  The previous day's mission had been foiled by high winds and high tide and the big swell had been somewhat wasted.
(Mex & The Dude bound out along the rocks as a bomb pours 'round the point)
First light revealed a smaller swell and winds that were measuring up to 60 knots; so much for the forecasts.  Already rubbered up for the occasion our pair of oldfartsurfers paddled out regardless, repeating the oldfartsurfers maxim 'any day you paddle out is a good day' to each other to strengthen their resolve.  "The waves were small and would have been flawless if it hadn't been for the wind"  said Mex.  "There was almost as much swell coming back along the point from the wind, it was crazy" added the Dude.
(Mex and  The Dude launch through the keyhole as a big gust hits)
Being experienced oldfartsurfers the boys soon developed techniques to deal with the wind.  "Firstly, we only caught waves between gusts" said the Mex, "when the wind dropped to about 40 knots"  "The other trick was not to do a bottom turn because when the wind got under your rail it just lifted you off the back of the wave" Mex continued.  "In the end I just rode the barrel prone and relied on my belly to cushion the blow of all the speed humps created by the howling offshore."
(60 knots rips the top off this wave)
The Dude, handled the conditions perfectly.  He got his Dominator into the slot and bouncing over the speed bumps.  "Unfortunately these bumps may have been the cause of a little buckle" said the Dude.  "I didn't notice anything until a couple of weeks later when the bottom layer of glass delaminated while I was riding some clean 3' waves" lamented the Dude, devastated by the loss of his Firewire Dominator.
After a short while the wind became a blinding blizzard and it was impossible to catch and ride anything.  The boys retired to the Oldfartsurfcafe'(*) for fresh coffee and pancakes with real Canadian maple syrup in honour of Moose (Original Oldfartsurfer No. 5),  who waslast seen looking for waves in the north west passage.
(The Mex uses his belly to cushion the bumps between the gusts)
"I was happy to forgo the traditional gingernut snaps in favour of the pancakes" said the Dude, "it was hard to thaw out the blizzard ice frost bite on my cheeks and I don't think the gingernuts would have quite done the job."
(The Dude Dominates the bumps)
"It has all been in the name of good research, said the Mex, " you can never know everything about the surf, so we'll keep researching"
(*Special Note: those lucky oldfartsurfers who have the 2011 Old Farts Surf Co. calender will see this months picture of Moose, Spot, The Dude and The Other Dude enjoying coffee and gingernuts in the Oldfarsurfcafe')

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Excellent story. Amazing photos. Who was the cam man?

Anonymous said...

No it wasn't the cam man, it was the WOOF - wife of the Oldfartsurfer.

Anonymous said...

The Dominator is now going to go through a rebirthing and be renamed the Delaminator.